Great Places In The Game: Golf de Morfontaine

Those of you following the blog this summer already know how enamored I was with North Berwick's West Course and Gullane after getting to play them in the firmest, fastest conditions imaginable. My other golfing highlight of 2013 and beyond came soon after when lucky enough to visit the ultra-exclusive Morfontaine. And as we close out another incredible year in our sport, longtime readers know I try to make it an annual post to highlight a special place in the game.

Thanks to marketing executive-turned golf architect Patrice Boissonnas--who has partnered with Dutch architect Frank Pont on restoration projects in France--I was able to get inside the secluded Morfontaine. About an hour outside of Paris to see its 27 holes of Tom Simpson-designed golf, the heathlands-style main course is certainly worthy of the accolades it has received over the years. Sure, it could also use some minor restoration work to return a few bunkers that would help differentiate some of the par-4s. But as far as quibbles go, that's about it. The course answers the most important question I ask of any design: would you want to play it every day?

Without question, Morfontaine would never grow old. (As usual, I concur with everything Darius Oliver wrote in this Planet Golf review of Morfontaine.)

However, as architect Mike Clayton instructed and Oliver notes in his review, the first priority at Morfontaine is to play the Valliere course, a just-under 3000-yard nine in front of the homey clubhouse. Golf Digest listed the Valliere #3 on its best nine-hole courses outside the U.S., behind only Royal Worlington & Newmarket G.C. and another favorite of mine, Musselburgh Links.

Memorable, playable, fun and fascinating, Valliere features some of the most outrageous man-made greens in golf. But because Simpson had the chance to nurture this design, the boldly contoured putting surfaces work beautifully so that they are manageable for even the old timers or kids who are more likely to play here. The childlike imagination it took to build the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 8th greens is a sight to behold, but they are also more than worthy of architectural study: the holes are fun to play. A couple of breathers (1st, 6th, 7th) and the overall walkability of Valliere make it a firm reminder of what our sport all too consistently lacks: nine hole courses that can be played quickly with never a dull visit.

One last thing to note before turning your over to my photos of glorious Morfontaine: note the many colors of its turf. The course is an organic one in design and maintenance, with only minimal irrigation and few attempts to turn it into a monochromatic green. By no means is Morfontaine less of a club because of its range of hues and textures. It's a model for what golf should and will look like in the future.

My photos start with the short nine in sequence, followed by shots of the main course. And yes, in case you were wondering by the looks of the par-3s, only perhaps Royal Melbourne has as many incredible one-shotters on a single golf property.

Comments

[Ivan Morris]

I am promised a game at Morfontaine in 2014. After reading this I cannot wait. Presently, I will have to make do with golfing my heart out in Otago, NZ. My outstanding golfing experience in 2013 was playing at Capilano in British Columbia. At home, in Ireland, I have been playing all of our 9-holes courses as a project. There are a few beauties! Connemara Isles in County Galway designed by the irrepressible Pat Ruddy was a stunning discovery.

[Pete Blaisdell]

I've become somewhat jaded (spoiled) over the years having had access to the world's best courses so I don't hand out accolades at the drop of a hat but having studied the photos you posted but let me say this.

WOW AND DOUBLE WOW!!!!!

[johnnnycz]

Looks like a neat place to go for a hit. Def has an older Euro-vibe to the place. Kinda reminds me of this quirky track not far from me:

(golf-stirin(dot)cz/en/golf-course-photo.html) Except Morfontaine looks to have been designed...uhh...more better...and is less overgrown with giant grass killing trees these days.

Love the bunkering and the quirky look of the greens and the shades of green with the brownish parts. A nice place to go for a walk let alone chase a ball.

@Geoff: What was your impression of the on going maintenance part of the course(s)? Some of those bunker edges look a couple feet higher than when they were originally built and a few trees could use a trim.

[D. maculata]

Another great piece of work, Geoff. Thanks for the treat.

Happy New Year golf junkies!

[sabino]

What a pleasant surprise to see you write about Morfontaine. Having playing the top courses in the world, Morfontaine was one of the best for sure. As you state, the Valliere course is stunning and there are many moments where you walk up to a tee box and say to yourself "wow" or have a hard time taking in the beauty. The fourth hole on Valliere is as good as any par three in the world, up there with the 15th at Cypress Point and Madstone's 14th. The course is very hard to get to play, it took me almost ten years of trying to finally manage it. After I played it, in a freak occurence I got invited back to play again on short notice two years later. It was a difficult conversation with the wife to tell her I was flying to Paris in two days with one of my golf buddies, but the course is that good! One of my prized possessions is a lime green golf shirt that I talked them into selling me from the "pro shop" (it is a closet), with a Morfontaine logo on it. You are lucky to have played it, congrats.

[Chico]

Geoff- the best 9 hole course in Scotland is here at Blairgowrie. it dates back to 1889 and is a gem- you should try to play it one day!

[Adam Lawrence]

I really love Morfontaine. First time I played there, three groups (a huge backlog by Morfontaine standards) were waiting on the first tee - I think there was a club meeting of some kind on - so we went off the tenth at the suggestion of M. Dulout. Arriving back at the first, we were met by an old gentleman playing alone in a golf cart. He invited us to join him, we accepted, and introductions were made. I remarked that his name sounds familiar, and he said, 'Ah, you may have heard of my great-great-great [I think it was three greats] grandfather, who was one of Napoleon's marshals.'

[Lynn S.]

Pictures? Those aren't pictures, they're paintings!

[Ivan Morris]

@Adam - I am reliably informed that Fontainbleu is better than Morfontaine. My golf in Paris experience revolves around the Irish Course at Clementader, which, if there were a few euros thrown at it - it would be right up there with the best of the best. All of these courses are within one hour of each other. French golf is superb. I love it!

[Adam Lawrence]

Ivan - whoever reliably informed you that is unreliable - it's not!

[Ivan Morris]

@Adam- It was a couple of apparently unreliable Parisian pros that told me that Fontainbleu is better than Morfontaine. I reckon I'll have to go to both of them and find out for myself. To be honest, saying one course is better than another is spurious - even if I started the argument.

[nguyenvuminh]

My goodness. I've seen pictures and write up of people's visit to Morfontaine from time to time but each an every single time, I'm blown away by its natural beauty. I know many will disagree but, in my humble opinion, this course's beauty is even more impressive than Pine Valley or Cypress Point picture wise. I'm jealous of all those that get to play this or Fontainbleu. In lieu of Simpson's impressive line up of courses, he really doesn't get the accolades of many other golf course architects.

[vwgolfer]

Geoff, is there a filter on your camera or does this place look that magical? Great.

[BrianS]

The pictures and the information from the posts are great. Out of curiosity - what is the French golfing scene like ? It seems like these top courses are ultra private, maybe even more so than the US. Or is there a strong public play ethos as in the UK ?

Thanks again, and Happy New Year to all.

[Bob McCoy]

Geoff,
You really hit the nail on the head with this one. Lucky enough to have played it in 1990 (2 rounds), 1997, and 1999 (including Valliere). It is magical!!! Your pictures are superb. A course for a life time of play.

[Mike Clayton]

Ivan

Fontainebleu is really good and well worth a visit - but it's not Morfontaine.
Between them they may have two of the best ten clubhouses in golf.

[dbh]

Now that looks like fun.
Superb pictures, Geoff.
Happy New Year, all!

[AMessix]

Your post brought back some great memories of my day at Morfontaine a few years ago. Both courses are truly wonderful. The amazing thing is how subtle the greens on the main course and how wild they are on Valliere. The 3rd green on Valliere is truly a sight to behold, but the first 8 greens are truly special stuff. That little roll that guards the right side of the green of Valliere is pure genius in how something very simple can be an effective hazard. Mike Nuzzo did something similar in front of the 12th at Wolf Point. The only greens that match up with Valliere in terms of cool, fun and wild is Engineers. The big course is a great examination of the game and will get you in funny little ways, but yet every hole is playable for a 10 handicap. It's truly great stuff.

[Le Classique Jose Male]

Also play nearby Chantilly - right up there too, IMHO.

[DTF]

"It's a model for what golf should and will look like in the future."

Agreed on the "should"...

...as for the "will" -- any hints on when and where? ;)

Happy New Year everyone!!!

[Bill]

Looks beautiful, but full of bad bounces. Don't mind the occasional hole with a tricky bounce around the green but would not enjoy 18 of them, at least not for my everyday course. Would still love to give it a go, though. Great pics, thanks, Geoff.